Thanks for elucidating on this further Kipper.

I had once considered renting a vehicle and driving myself. In giving it deeper thought I decided against it for a number of reasons. A woman traveling alone would be an easy target, a vehicle breakdown/flat tire would be something I probably couldn't fix myself. I have watched guides trying to change a punctured tire on gravel and sand and the slipping jack proved a problem. There is no AAA to call for road assistance, and when one is used to driving on only paved roads - making the switch from tarmac to gravel to deep sand to gullys etc requires knowledge. As you suggest, it would behoove anyone considering this type of travel to take an off-road driving course first.

I spoke to a Kenyan tour operator last month. As a teenager he used to go out alone with his tent and camp all over the Naivasha area. He awoke one morning and everything he owned that was in the tent with him had disappeared including bag with clothing! Upon investigation he found that when he was asleep someone had come with a razor or utility knife, made slits on the bottom of both sides of the tent and removed everything except him and his sleeping bag! On another occasion he awoke to find a snake curled up beside his sleeping bag for warmth!

I'm sure you will have a fantastic trip - wish I were going with you! Please be sure to take tons of pictures of the Botswana elephants for me.

Enjoy your holiday, Kipper! Curious to hear from you !

Have the best trip - do not forget to be civilised and have the G&T - Tanquery that is...

Home again!
Will post the report as and when time permits!
Attacked by elephant!
Camped in Linyanti, around the camp fire, a big bull came in to feed on the bushes & leaves, a ghost figure lit by the camp fire! Six or seven meters away but he slowly worked his way towards us passing a couple of meters the other side of the fire.
He had passed us & was going away from us when one of the chairs squeaked as we followed his movement.
This startled him & he turned I do not think to attack but he came within a meter of me before a shout sent him scampering! (We measured the distance from his foot prints to my chair in the morning)

Alas as this bull is now used to visiting camp sites & humans it will not be long before he is shot as Dangerous!

But it does highlight how easy a special experience can go so easily wrong with such a simple thing as the squeak of a chair!

So we're back safe & sound........And to think Nico I had left you my copy of "Back Street English Jokes" in my will!

Kipper - I can't believe you're home already. So glad to hear you had a good trip.

Thanks for posting your close call with the bull. You are absolutely correct about his future. The elephants get acclimated very quickly. Your shout was probably the first time he had been yelled at and he ran. The next time someone shouts at him he may not be so cooperative.

At my favorite camp most of the elephants respect the bounds set for them by the askaris and don't come into the middle of camp. However, in the last couple of weeks there is one large bull who has decided he likes the tamarind and sausage trees near the patio where lunches are served. The first few times he came they waved him off. Then they resorted to shouting and waving. Then they resorted to an air horn - and now even that doesn't work. Once the rains come he will move away, but in the meantime all are on alert.

Can't wait to read about the rest of your trip. I'm sure it went all too fast!

Can't believe how fast time goes by. Already back??

impatiently waiting for the full trip report ...