Just got another email from Kat. I'll share it with you:

Stayed at Kichwa Tembo in the Mara Triangle (a much better regulated piece of land than any that KWS oversees....they have no off road driving and they have guys in small vehicles follow up on the special events, ie, spotting a leopard in a tree with a kill. Only five vehicle maximum acceptable....they are there to turn away the rest, and do....and tell them to come back later. They cancel your park privledges if you disobey the rules. What a refreshing change from KWS managed? park/reserves that only have a bunch of staff at gates collecting money!!)

I saw some amazing things but the wildlife was very scarce overall and the migration apparently started at the border, but there were so many vehicles and noise as the wildebeest approached that they turned back to Tanzania! Flew over the Greater Mara and saw hardly any animals and only 10 to 15 eles...either singly or in tiny groups of 2 or 3...despite the fact that the there were rains both before and during my stay and the grass was tall, green and luxuriant.

The highlight was also the lowlight of the adventure. We were watching a female lion with 2 cubs about 6 months old. Suddenly we saw 3 huge males watching from a hilltop. One of them came down in a hunting mode.....the female came to meet him with head down in a submissive posture. The male lion ran past her and grabbed a cub by the throat and killed it.....he was later apparently eating part of it.....all of us in the vehicle, including Charity, were sick about this but this is what male lions do to offspring not their own. Have seen it on TV but a different story close up and personal.