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some bits and pieces from SA/BOT

Link to this post 03 May 09

09 April start packing my stuff at 13.00h for departing for FRA at 16.00h same day. Despite I am longing for Africa I somehow cannot start packing because there is so much to do still..............

Anyway - I throw my things into my duffel, last shower incl. hairwash (Kai is nodding his head constantly because of my timing) and off we drive to FRA/parents in law visiting in Ruesselsheim (close to Mainz) before we take a cab to FRA Rhein Main Intl.

Fly on award tickets business on my favourite airline LH. Food, drinks etc. is very good but the sleeper seats are next to nothing compared to e.g. Emirates, Etihad or other. LH's are flat but angular. Thanks god I can sleep in any seat so a G+T followed by a red will help to get me a spound sleep soon.

Wake up shortly before breakfast is to be served. Time flew.......

10 hrs after take off we land at OR TAMBO.

Limo service is waiting. Kwathlano service takes us to the Saxon Hotel where 2 cases of Meerlust Rubicon are waiting for us So we won't run out of good stuff But some bottles are meant as presents

Taking a shower and then the first meeting with the rep of Makweti starts at 14.00hrs. It's not really a business meeting as such but some things have to be sorted out, papers exchanged for honeymooners soon etc.. It's meeting with a good friend enjoying a fabulous lunch at the Saxon's poolside. A wonderful sunny afternoon in South Africa! Getting my cigarettes is some kind of difficult despite I have ordered them at least 6 weeks in advance. In the end I get them
After some business talk we kiss Helen goodbye, Kai goes to the suite in order to prepare the photo equipment and I join the Spa for a decent back massage which is heaven!

We have dinner in our suite and retire pretty early because the next morning we get fetched at 07.00h by Kwathlano.

After a sumptuous breakfast Kwathlano fetches us and we drive to OR Tambo in order to get our hired car. Instead of the booked Nissan Xtrail 4x4 we get a Honda CRV 4x4. It's not a high ground clearance/vantage as the Nissan but it will do (until Pafuri as we know now).

At 09.00h we hit the road towards Timbavati for King's Camp.

Around 14.00h we reach the camp. The ride was uneventful, smooth and without getting a ticket for speeding (which means something as we know now).

To be continued...........

Link to this post 04 May 09

Can't wait to hear more Pippa. Sounds as though you had a fantastic trip.

However, why are you ordering cigarettes there? Don't you take your own brand with you?

Link to this post 04 May 09

Hi Jan
regarding the cigarettes: I HATE shopping and carrying stuff from the Duty Free and therefore I always order them in advance. AND they are more favourable than in Germany. AND I exploit the personal connection to the management

11.-13.04.2009
So now King's camp:http://www.kingscamp.com/
A lovely camp (11 chalets/22 pax) huge chalets (NO tents!) in colonial style incl. inside/outside showers, terrasse, lovely lawn, swimmingpool (which was empty most of the time) boutique, very nice restaurant and bar where we gather for pre-dinner drinks each night.

We settle, unpack and off we are doing our very first game drive at King's.

From now on "safari routine" takes over:
wake up at 05.30h (our alarm clock goes off at 05.00h because we just need some more time to get back to conciousness), coffee/tea at 06.00h and off we are at 06.15h
back to camp at around 10.00h.
breakfast
15.00h lunch (that was strange because they skip high-tea which I consider "essential" for a decent safari experience
16.00h off for afternoon drive
sundowner in the bush
back at camp around 19.00h and welcome by the management staff with cherry
19.45h pre-dinner drinks
20.00/20.15h dinner

I missed the hot chocolate/coffee break during the morning drives as this offers the opportunity to stretch legs a bit in between these rock and roll drives.
I also missed the fireplace in front of the restaurant. I love sitting around the fire before or after dinner.
Also the seating at dinner/lunch/breakfast in "restaurant style" is something I don't like so much as it prevents people to socialise with others.

Our ranger was Mourne and tracker was Selby, a Shangaan with stunning tracking skills, for which the Shangaan are famous for.

We watched:
leopardess with cub (rockfig and Nkateko) and 2 more individual leopards
elephants (one breeding herd and one cow gave birth to her calv which we could not see as she was well protected and went into the thickets and we did not want to interfere nor upset the mom and herd.
Antelopes
Porcupine
Honeybadger which re-designed the rubbish bins behind the restaurant.

The days were pleasant with 25/28°C but the mornings already were pretty cold.

A mid size pleasant camp where the staff goes out of its way to please the guests. Good value in South African terms which is also because Timbavati Reserve does not offer generally speaking the cat sightings as Sabi Sands.

All rooms are undergoing a major refurb which will be concluded later this year - one room at one step.

13.-15.04.09
The next venue is ULUSABA, Sir Richard Branson's bush retreat
http://www.ulusaba.virgin.com/
Gred: Ranger/James:Ttracker (Shangaan)
A wonderful experience right from the beginning. Staff is naturally friendly to a degree that one feels as a house guest instead of a paying client.
Safaril lodge: No Children, which we particularly appreciate. No running, playing and shouting around. Just adults who are into good life style, game drives and relaxation.
Lapa with looooong table
Restaurant with family table
Nice bar
"Elephant rooms" are connected by long swinging bridges (adventure!), built in between trees on stilts with views into a dry river bed
a tree house with stunning views to a dam and into the plains, walls consisting of glass all around.
safari rooms which are the most favourable and at a rack rate of 4.600ZAR a bargain in Sabi Sands terms because EVERYTHING is included in the rate;: premium South African wines (e.g. Meerlust Rubicon, Rust en Vrede, Neil Ellis, Bouchard Finlayson, Glen Carlou - you name them...)
river rooms, some have plunge pools (mostly given to honeymooners)
Somehow physically limited guests should go for either the safari rooms or river rooms.
the whole safari lodge is surrounded and facilities connected by wooden walkways.
Great atmosphere throughout!

Safari routine here:
05.30h wake up call/06.00h bisquits/coffee and off for the drive
coffee break in the bush
10.00h back and breakfast
13.30h light lunch
15.30h high tea
16.00h afternoon game drive
19.00h back to camp
19.45h pre-dinner drinks
20.15h/20.30h 4 course dinner


We saw
one leopardess stalking a kudu bull (she obviously over estimated her strenght and hunting skills)
a group of Rhinos
plains game

The second evening we had the choice between sundowner and witnessing a lion darting, branding, taking blood samples, vaccination.
Lions are sedated in order to vaccinate them against rabies. The branding is necessary to distinguish a vaccinated from an unvaccinated animal and the blood samples are necessary to proof they are not infected and rabies free so that they don't have to be put down in case of a rabies outbreak.

We drove to the operation site and there were 1 big male lion as well as a lioness already "sleeping". Approx. 15 people were involved in that operation. A third lion had got the injection but was wandering around refusing to fall asleep. The vet came into our vehicle and we followed the lion slowly. The vet made an attempt to leave the car when the lion seemed to be "falling asleep" but immediately when the vet touched ground the lion was fully alert again. So the lion got a second and also a third injection before that guy finally gave up.
A pick-up drove by and 8 men lifted the lion onto the platform (using a blanket).
That lion then was driven back to where the 2 other lions were in order to undergo the whole procedure of branding, vaccinating, blood samples etc etc.

We were allowed to leave the vehicle and watch closely the operation. Strangely enough, when the first 2 of them lifted their heads none of us was irritated or nervous. We were wearing gloves and could touch the lions. This was an awesome opportunity to get so close to these gracious beasts. But they behave just as normal cats when they are sedated. Lovely creatures.

These lion were watched for the whole night until they got back to their feet the next morning in order to ensure their well being during that night. They did not get an injection which brings them back immediately. To me that sounded a bit strange as I imagine it's pretty tricky to keep 3 lions together when they want to get back on to their feet and start wandering..........I hope they knew what they were doing.

That evening the chef had to wait for our return until 21.00h. He must have been made because the starter was meant to be a goat cheese souffle.

This concession is the last one within Sabi Sands and the fence is visible depending where the game drives are heading to.

Rock lodge allows children at any age. This lodge lies on top of some koppies and a steep drive way takes guest up to the lodge.
The atmosphere here is completely different to safari lodge. The views are stunning - also during day light

A third lodge had just opened: Cliff lodge. This is for exclusive use only: 5 chalets.
a rhino fight (one cow helped out as well and the bull and cow drove the other one off)

We left early morning of 15 April for Louis Trichard/Makhadu close to the Botswana border post. We expected the drive to be at least 5 hours plus fuel stop. So we got a lovely packed breakfast from Ulusaba incl. fruit juice, sandwhiches, eggs, fruits, napkins, straws. The packed breakfast mirrored the care the Ulusaba staff puts into details in order to please guests or exceed guest's expectations.

Overall: A great experience! And we most certainly get back as Ulusaba is not only about game drives. It's about life style and making friends.

to be continued.........

Link to this post 04 May 09

WOW! Three shots before going down. I've seen adult elephants go down in minutes. Wonder if perhaps they didn't give a strong enough dose the first and second times.

It must have been a thrill being that close to the lions they were testing. I've only been really close to one lion (within feet of our vehicle) and the stench was unbelievable. Did you notice a strong odor as you got close to these lions? Hope you got some good pictures of them.

Can't wait to hear more. Really sounds like a fantastic trip.

Link to this post 06 May 09

Jan,

the experience with that male which didn't want to give up mirrors the experience I had with our male maine coon cat. I had 2 (lady and the guy) at the vet for teeth check and extraction. The vet weight both of them and calculated the dose. The female was knocked out immediately and the male was jumping around after he got his first dose. He needed a second shot. The female came back within minutes without any difficulties (I was watching them closely at the vet as I had heart that cats are extremely difficult in view to coping with sedation and getting back to their feet afterwards) and the male almost slept away. He needed that "wake-up shot" or he would have gone. That was the result of the dose because he did not want to sleep.
Obviously it's a "male" thing to not give up...............

No, we did not smell anything when we got close to them. It was a thrill touching them while they were trying to lift their heads........

Ah I forgot to mention: The operation crew shot a male Kudu ( ) to bait them in order to place these shots.

Link to this post 06 May 09

Pippa:

Thanks for the explanation. I had no idea cats were that difficult to tranquilize/anesthetize. Very interesting.

I hope you got some good photos and videos during the entire procedure. Would love to see them.